From our motorhome a thicker beam pours and I know that This rippling does not Bode well. I go to the knee, hold me with one Hand on the bumper and try to come up with the other in the vicinity of the jet, which flows from our left under the ground. The cold liquid runs down the back of my Hand. I RUB the Wet, between the index finger and thumb, smell it carefully. Oil it is not. The acrid smell of Diesel missing. But what is it then? Left only the water remains. 70 liters, which we have pumped a few minutes before in the fresh water tank of our Camper and with whom we have to water generously the Elbe. It is a sad sight. After a while the sound stops. The Tank is empty.

And us, The valves on falls:! We have forget to close the dump valves. How embarrassing. Finally, we had risked before the Start of a pretty fat lip.


The author Ilona Kriesl and her friend in front of your trusty T3 VW-Bulli in the Northern Cape. The Bus was equipped with nothing. Now, the two Hardcore wanted to try the Camper again as a “real” living to the touch mobile.


“Camping? Clearly, we can!”, I had told my colleagues proudly, as my friend and I got the offer to test a motorhome. Why was I so confident? In the past year, we were driven with our 30-year-old T3 Bulli to the Baltic sea. From Hamburg via Sweden up to the North Cape. And back via Russia. It’s a wild, wonderful Tour, but also incredible forces was draining. We had thrown a mattress, a sweater, and rubber boots in the van and were driven off, without electricity, without running water. During the 8300-Kilometer-long Tour of the Bulli liquid lost; it was Oil, change cooling water. We mended the porous rubber lines, and continued on.

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Since then, Camping for me means adventure, nature and earthiness. All that I brought, but never in a mobile home in connection. A Camper with a bathroom, a kitchen and a fridge always appeared to me as a compromise: Good enough to be a bit out of the everyday to break out. But please don’t quite. Finally, it has the half of the House with the Luggage. After our four-day Tour, I realize how wrong I am.

The shiny puddle under our motorhome is like a Déjà-vu. Luckily, we are here on the Elbe river alone, I think. Pitying looks from other campers, we shall be spared. The first night, we have to forego a shower and a sink, and remember: anyone Who travels for the first Time with the amenities of a real motorhome, you should take a look in the manual.

The views of the port of Hamburg is the mishap quickly forgotten: On the other Bank of the Elbe river, the top of the Elbphilharmonie screwed into the evening sky. In the distance a Port chimney pastel blows-colored fire in the air – dancing flames in pink, blue, green. We marvel at the spectacle that is unfolding in front of our front window. And also a little about the noise: on our right is anchored to a freighter, the “Grande Atlantico”. The engine of the ship is buzzing deep and sonorous.

“Grande Atlantico”, I think to myself, that sounds like freedom and adventure. Up to the Atlantic coast, we don’t want to travel with our motorhome, however, to the Baltic sea – 800 instead of 8000 kilometres. From Hamburg to the Baltic sea coast up to the darss and back via the Mecklenburg lake district. For Camping regions, coastal and water almost: because of the varied landscape, the Vastness and the freedom of the sea, Parking spaces on the water and short swimming stops rich.

as many people as today with Caravan or travel in Germany mobile on-the-go. The industry is booming, with 34.6 million Nights were the German camping alone in the year 2018. 11.5 million Federal citizens, a camping holiday is their favorite Form of travel. And for this love some people are apparently willing to attack heavily in the pocket: The number of new registrations of motorhomes increased in the course of the last three years, soared by 66 per cent – of 26.300 vehicles in 2015, of 43,700 in the year 2018. The sector is benefiting from the desire of the Germans to nature and home leave.

Insel Poel – the Finest street food from the sea

After the night at the port of Hamburg Bay is the next destination, the island of Poel in Wismar. The 37 square kilometres, about 2700 people live. The landmark of the island is a lighthouse at the Timmendorfer beach. In the Harbor a couple of ears as jellyfish leisurely rounds. And the island seems to follow suit: On Poel is cozy and quiet. Anyone looking for overstimulation, or chic seaside architecture, is here wrong.

In Timmendorf Poels is a steep coast, coast and steep, that sounds like a harsh nature and brausendem waters. But even here, life is tranquil: A grass snake winds its way over the shore, and flits – startled by the visitors – in the reeds. The grasses sway. And it is less, the reptile that can be a stress, but the sudden rustle, the mixes in the silence.

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There are mainly travelers from large cities such as Hamburg and Berlin, who appreciate the peace and quiet on Poel know, Melanie rust and Tobias Hassels. From may to October, you are in the Snack “Snack Poel” in the Parking lot at the dam, immediately after Crossing to the island. From your orange followers from you to see tourists arrive and depart.


the Finest fishing fresh street food on Poel.


rust and Hassels serve the finest street food, as you would expect in Berlin – only with local ingredients. The buns come from a friend’s bakery. The vegetables from an organic farm from Bastorf. Rust and Hassels sausages made from lamb or Wild sizzle, optionally with a homemade dandelion Pesto, or buckthorn mustard. And even Vegans will find something in here: a choice of seitan skewers, and seasonal vegetables. Other meat-free dishes of this type you have to look in the environment, probably for a long time. With wild bratwurst in Hand, we are close to the shore and enjoy the views: over the dam, salt marshes, and the Baltic sea.

luxury feelings: eat from the porcelain directly on the water

Who like it primitive the road needs to follow three kilometers in the direction of Kirchdorf: Here is the Poeler Forellenhof of Ingrid and Manfred in Iceland is. Since 1993, the couple operates in the village of Niendorf is a fish smokehouse with an adjacent RV Park with a view over the Wismar Bay. The specialty of the house are trout and smoked salmon. However, halibut, eels and gold be prepared mackerel in the traditional Smoking ovens. To 18 at the sales counter is open. We are lucky and get one of the last fish of the day. On the ring hob in our motorhome, we prepare potatoes, in addition, place the fish on porcelain plates, and expose us to the port. We all enjoy the simple luxury: Correct dish we had Packed our Camper van Tour in the first place. We left everything at home, which was heavy, or bulky. Our 50 HP-strong engine for the sake of.


At the port, it tastes the best: For dinner, there’s smoked trout and halibut

©Ilona Kriesl

In the mobile home, the disillusionment follows: We have forgotten washing-up liquid and cloth at home. The rescue camping two meters next to us: an older Couple with a Labrador. The two laugh at our rookie mistakes and tilt, plenty of washing up liquid in our Cup of espresso.

The following night is short, loud and uncomfortable. A storm with lightning and hail is sweeping the island. Against two clock at night, thick rain drops clapping to our roof window. Lightning, thunders, and the interior of our motorhome for a fraction of a second as bright as day.

packing list for camping holidays: Eight campers reveal what is necessarily have to Fullscreen

My most important item when Camping:

“This Basil Plant. We have to travel a while to cook, but also as a decoration for the table.” (Britt)

©Ilona Kriesl

“coffee!”, is my first thought in the Morning. I slip into my shoes and walk to the Inn building. The Storm has cooled the air considerably, a fresh Wind is whistling around the ship masts in the Harbor. It strums and ringing, a concert, as it creates only the Baltic sea-Wind. The woman at the counter sold me a bun and smiles as I ask for two cups of Cappuccino out of the question. “Cappuccino? We don’t have here – but I can offer a pot of coffee.”

How close Tradition and Modernity but between each other can, I think to myself. On the dam, the seitan can be served on skewers. And up here, a bit of milk foam on the coffee as expendable frills. Two worlds, not five minutes away from each other.

Where is the Baltic sea, shows off her ice-blue teeth

We continue in the direction of Ostseebad Nienhagen in the district of Rostock. A few Hundred meters from the beach promenade, we look at an impressive natural spectacle: the Ghost forest. Huge, part bizarre deformed trees stand close to the steep coast with view towards the Baltic sea. It acts as a force of nature the forces of the trees against the sea. Often the sea has the upper hand.


On the coast of Nienhagen Groynes in the water to protect against sand loss

©Ilona Kriesl

heavy rain and storms gnaw at the steep Bank edge. The Baltic sea washes off the debris and leads to the coast in the year to around 25 centimeters and back. Only the trees seem to defy the elemental force: The crowns of the giants seem to have fused, so as you would try to cleave to each other. If you want to survive against natural forces, must join forces.

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The atmosphere of the forest shows what magic can occur when you leave the nature itself: the trees are too close to the cliff edge, die. In the dead wood it is crawling with beetles and woodlice, wild bees, and hornets. Black woodpeckers rooms caves in the wood and create accommodations for the tenant, such as jackdaws, Waldkauze and bats. The trail leads us always deeper into the forest, and our eyes wander again and again to the ground: We have a large, jet-black slugs to Dodge, crosses the forest path.

We are at one of the termination edges, and are surprised by the rough face of the sea: Is this still the same Baltic sea, such as we have on Poel experienced? In the swans bathed and children in knee-deep water played? Wild and icy blue Baltic sea is in front of us. Waves beat against the shore and swirling in the flotsam and Jetsam of a mess: sand in clams, and fire-stones, and mussels, whose inner sides mother-of-pearl colors Shine. The views of this spectacle of nature changes with each step. I stare at the water, to the left and right trees: a images live frame on the raging sea.


to Appreciate A mystical place: the spooky forest, on the steep coast of Nienhagen

©Ilona Kriesl signs the Navi lead!

Who travels with the caravan, comes in a close bond to the country and its people. To me, this intense and unique Form of travel like. I’m on the plane, I look often to the bottom and wonder what places, sights and people we miss now. The best stories are usually the left and right side of the road and tell you can stop you only if you turn to the,, questions. We follow a sign with a painted Apple and learning Stephan Dietrich know.

Since 2009, Dietrich operates a works in a century-old parish barn in Rethwisch. He saw the old fruit trees that grew in the rectory garden: Apples and pears, including varieties from the Old country, with such evocative names as the “”Altländer ” pancakes” and “Pomeranian crooked stick.” And decided in 2009 to renovate the barn from the year 1745, and works to collect. So he not only found a good use for the Apples from the rectory garden, but also saved the historic thatched-roof building. “It was at risk of collapsing. A severe storm it could have been upset,” he says.


In the works of Stephan Dietrich (left), there is not only a self-made fruit juices but also marmalades and fruit brandies


A simple life? Not always. What is causing him concern are the failure years, says Dietrich. Particularly critical is when the fruit trees bear in the spring of buds and then once the Frost is raising. Years with poor fruit yield are not only pity for the monster, but also for its customers. A measly harvest means less supplies for the sale. And they want – no, need – to juice with this Apple: It tastes sour, sweet and salty and so authentic to the Apple that juices from the supermarket fortan on the left want to leave. We buy as many bottles as we have space in our fridge, and decide, our journey to continue. This Time, with five more kilos in the Luggage. The Peninsula, which we control, is called “Fischland-Darß-Zingst”. Of travellers it is called, however, lovingly nicknamed “darss”.

Ups, there’s a bit of the Caribbean to the Baltic sea?

It is weekend, summer, and the Peninsula on the coast of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, one of the most popular holiday in the Baltic sea Region. There is a large Share from the national Park “vorpommersche boddenlandschaft”. We drive the only road in the direction of the North high – we have had a camper in front of us, a group of motorcycle riders with swallows. At the entrance of our campsite there is a sign and points to the Camper to the fact that all Parking places are occupied. Good that we have reserved.

We put up our camper in the shade of large pine trees and are surprised. Camp here, young couples and retirees, dropouts and career people – a colorful cross-section of society. We come up with a couple from Bremen to the discussion, which are diagonally across from us. Britt and Martin traveling with a Mercedes Sprinter, which is developed as a caravan. We open a bottle of wine, cook together and enjoy the evening by the sea in the evening. The four of us, we are on the beach, while the sun slides into the horizon from the powder-white Sand. The last Glow colors coast and the sea in a pink light. “Have you ever been in the Caribbean?”, ask me Britt. I shake my head. “There is the same sunsets.”


sunset on the North of the Darß-the beach: The evening light casts long shadows

©Ilona Kriesl

The next Morning we get up early, go to strap the bicycles of the bracket on the rear of our motorhome and bike. We want to keep to the West to the West beach, we hit the first forest road in this direction. The movement is good, but the ground is treacherous: We rumble over arm thickness of the roots and avoid deep holes full of mud. After a while, we are heading to a clearing with signs. I turn around and read a sign that is attached to the forest path, from which we just came: “way for cyclists unusable” as is. From the right a Concrete way that leads to the campground crosses. I laugh briefly about our own stupidity, and I’m at the same time glad that we arrived safely.


Green, green, darss: With the wheel, it goes through the national Park “vorpommersche boddenlandschaft”. Here the nature is still untouched.

©Ilona Kriesl

On the right path, continue towards the coast. Wind blows against us. We are approaching the sea and step into the pedals. On the crown of the Tree to the top of the lighthouse appears Darßer place. Since 1848, he is here and sends his light also flashes of 23 nautical miles in the Baltic sea. Earlier, up to three lighthouse keepers worked here. Today, the tower is monitored remotely.

The West beach early in the Morning still empty of people. However, the amount of Bicycle Parking spaces suggests, as it may be later in the day. At the foot of the lighthouse, crooked pine trees, sticking out like hands out of the Sand. They are called wind flüchter, because they grow back from the Wind. I can understand this impulse well. Gusts whipped up by the Wind on the coast and swirls grains of sand that blow against our face, hands and calves. Presumably, this gusts of wind are still harmless in comparison to the autumn and winter storms, which make the coast so. At a length of 13 kilometres, the sea breaks every year meters of Land from the West beach and rinsed it in the Darßer place.

“you’re leaving?”, ask our neighbors, while we lift our bikes onto the bracket on the camper and tie down. Not a few spend here at the top of the darss your summer holidays, days, if not weeks, so diverse is the nature. To us, however, it moves on to the Müritz in the Mecklenburg lake district. At the Camp, both camps find each other: the one to snap like that. And the restless.

The former secret bunker in the forest

More than the Müritz on the way excites us there. Halfway in the direction of the South, we Stop at a Bunker in Ticino: the former main battle of the people’s Navy of the GDR state. In the event of a war should be led by the fleets in the battle. But there was, fortunately, never.

a secret bunker in the woods: time travel in the Cold war Fullscreen

Who is with a mobile home or Caravan on the road, you must not drive always classic destinations such as the lake. Even away from popular tourist routes, there is much to discover: for example, this old East German Bunker in a forest in the Ticino.

©Ilona Kriesl

The RV is jerky on the old Concrete tile path leads into the woods. A rusty barrier forces us to Keep. “Enter” is prohibited, with the Graffiti on the building to our right. We let the engine continue to run and stare at the blocked way. Now what? Reverse gear?

The curiosity wins. To walk more. We push on a Door and the concrete road, past the former accommodation buildings of the teams. The got camouflage the plaster peels off in thick cloth of the walls. Large parts of the area has brought the nature back. In the gutters grasses and small bushes grow. And also people seem to have this place to visit – this Time on a peaceful Mission: Colorful paint splashes on the walls tell stories of young people who play Paintball.

It is primarily the proximity of nature, seclusion and flexibility that a traveler can appreciate to the Camping are. Close to nature we have with our Bulli abundant – yet flexible we are with him. On our Baltic Tour, we were of the rest area Toilets, and campsites-dependent. After a breakdown, and hours of Schrauberei we snuck in Sweden at night on a closed campsite: Our hands were full with lubricating oil. And we needed soap and warm water.

A breakdown is not threatening us in our camper though. And, above all, the small bathroom with a sink, shower and toilet provides more independence in view. But the greatest freedom ends at the latest after two to three days. The on-Board computer indicates that our waste water tank is full. And the fresh water tank is empty. We decide not to camp as planned wild on lake müritz, but to control instead of a campsite. Once nachfülllen, please!

A night we’ll spend here and go the next Morning to the Schaalsee. He is located in the former inner-German border area between Schleswig – Holstein and Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. The situation in the former no-man’s land was a godsend for the environment: cranes, white-tailed eagle and Otters still live in the Region. In the forests around the lake thrive flowers such as orchids and in the waters of rare fish swimming species such as smelt, Dace and burbot.

It seems like a paradox: of all things, the Cold war has contributed to the preservation of this stunning natural landscape. Since 2000, the 310-square-kilometer area is one of the biosphere reserve to the East of the schaal lake to the UNESCO.


From this bridge in the Schaalsee you can see to the bottom – or just the feet dangle in the water


The 24-square-mile lake and the surrounding forests are easily explored on foot or with the wheel, and the almost untouched nature. We Park our RV on a small Parking space just before the Schaalsee-island camping Werder and walk on the lake shore in the direction of Lassahn. Here is buzzing and buzzing it at every corner: dragonflies, dung beetles, hornets, and Bumble bees to cross our path. Unfortunately, a couple of giant mosquitoes – they, too, are part of the diversity of species on site.

By Lassahn, we enjoy the view over the forest and the lake, and strengthen us, before we travel back home to Hamburg. A highlight of the lake holds ready for us yet: A bald eagle soars in front of us from the Green of the forest and disappears in a matter of seconds in the thicket.

The streets of Hamburg appear to us according to these impressions, suddenly strange grey. For the last Time, it draws us to the port on the Elbe river. We sit on the threshold of our caravan and enjoy the views. In front of us, the Wind pulls, gray clouds are in the sky. Behind us the light of the caravan and I understand what makes the charm of this apartment on four wheels warms. Traveling with a camper is what it means to have a homeland in the distance. It unites contradictions. A lust for adventure and comfort. Leave and arrive.

Posted on 15. June 2019

The vehicle was supplied to us for this report by the Association for the caravanning industry (CVID) available.


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