There is this Moment in the Childhood of Dimitris Skopelitis, no special Moment, more of a everyday. Nevertheless, the scene remained in his memory. Skopelitis sits on the Wharf at the time, on the island of Amorgos, looking out at the sea and waiting for the ship that comes every day at the same time, he expected the horns, he is ready when a sailor throws the leash, he attached it, he can’t wait to run to the ship, because he knows who is on the bridge: his father.

Since 1956, the ferry, which belonged to the family went, every day, between the Cycladic Islands of Amorgos and Naxos and gave it to the still smaller Islands in between. At the beginning of the ship Dimitris drove’ grandfather, and later his father. Today Skopelitis is shortly before 14 o’clock on the quay of Naxos, the ferry that bears his family name, is ready to launch. He is 31 years old, is ships at sea on container. Now, almost every day the same program: from Amorgos to Naxos and back, eight hours on the lake.

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“I wanted to never something else,” he says. Initially, it goes along one and a half hours of the coast of Naxos, the passengers will get a beer from the kiosk and sit on the Deck. The “Express Skopelitis” is not a small ship, you are sitting high above the sea. Nevertheless, it is a ship that moves almost always. “Up to 8 wind,” says captain Skopelitis, often even if other ships remain in the ports.

The water is all

in The afternoon reached the ferry Iraklia, the largest of the Small Cyclades South of Naxos. An island with about 140 residents, a couple of cars standing on the Wharf, waiting for tourists. The “Express Skopelitis” creates, and you will immediately want to jump into the water. It is so clear, it looks as if the fishermen would float boats.

On the Small Cyclades, had told a friend in Athens, begins to pool the Swim in the harbour. On the question of what accounts for the Islands, said captain Skopelitis: “the love”. To find the cheesy was easy to understand but it takes not even a day.

The water. It is different here. The water is everything. Every Morning, you will experience on one of these Islands, the first thought to the Swimming. You want to run from the bed directly into the sea, and if you do, congratulates man of decision. You swim out into the Bay, the water surrounds you, you looks down how many meters are there? You can see the bottom of the sea, sees all the fish, you could spend hours in this water.


night panorama of Chora on Naxos

Martin from Albania came out in the 90s as a refugee on the nearby island of Amorgos, and later took over the small guest house on Iraklia. It is now called “Martin’s Rooms” and is located in a Bay directly on the beach, in addition, only two taverns, and a Hippie campsite. Martin picks us up at the port, shows us the rooms, it costs little enough to stay for a very long time, then he disappears. He says, what time is the Check-out time is, asks not our passports, not even a credit card. It is 16 o’clock, it is just a half-hour on the island, and it is all done, the sea is waiting.

travel to the Small Cyclades is, to move in a small world, you can see the next island often. From the beach on Iraklia you can see the even smaller neighbouring island of Schinoussa and Naxos. To travel with the ferry a bit, as you bestiege a Bus. The night before one buys the Ticket in one of the travel agencies at the port. On Iraklia there has been in the travel Agency. This here is the world of the Online Check – in, the savings rates, of the security controls. It is an analog world.

age of innocence

friends from Athens who were here 20 years ago, will ask for a couple of weeks later: Is it the travel Agency yet, at the same time a Café? There is the camping, we have camped? There’s the tavern next to the port with the lamb from the oven?

On Iraklia you can these questions all be answered in the affirmative. There are the fisherman who returns in the morning from the sea, with the car’s taverns, leaves, and you catch brings. Starting in September there is no Bus service on the island. There are only a couple of taverns more than 20 years ago, you can choose whether you can drink on a roof terrace with a Cocktail or a beer from the Kiosk at night on the sandy beach want to lie, in order to observe the stars in the sky.

Much more has not changed. It is the time to stand still, as the Germans say, to tell the “age of innocence”, as the Greeks of the time before mass tourism. As Greece was a country for dropouts. A few days later, felt much to early, get us the “Express Skopelitis”. The captain stands on Deck, later, a fishing boat comes to us, in the view of the water, it scares a little bit, you can see to the sea floor.

The magic of Iraklia is situated in the Simple

Dimitris Skopelitis departs in the summer, tourists and Locals, in the Winter only the Locals. His ferry is your connection to the outside world. With the “Express Skopelitis” drive to the shop to Naxos, it is for the people on the Islands as something of a post ship. If you go inside to the Kiosk, and in the wood-panelled room, the photos from the ‘ 60s, considers, then, what is the “Skopelitis” is understood as: a reminder. Floating Nostalgia.


The neighboring island of Iraklia: Schinoussa

©Andrea Matone Picture-Alliance

takes The ship a little more than an hour from Iraklia to Koufonisi. The magic of Iraklia is situated in the Simple. The magic of Koufonisi has something Noble. Some say Koufonisi is on the way to be a little Mykonos. The yachts moored in the port will be longer, the boutiques are more expensive, new beach clubs and designer hotels on the island. Koufonisi staged the beauty. Also, it is so small that you can circumnavigate on foot, but chic enough that chefs are working with imagination and Hoteliers, which is not only clarity, but also to luxury. The “Pambelos Lodge” is opened by the she continued her education Vasiliki and her husband. Actually, she is a pharmacist, this Boutique Hotel leads the way, and has something to say also about the casualness of this island.

Koufonisi is like a Iraklia for the jet set

The days of it to go from the beach, the beach, the whole coast consists of small bays. The truth is: On Iraklia, the water is eerily beautiful, it is breathtaking. If one bathes on Koufonisi, it is believed, the Mediterranean sea would be a bathtub.

Hippies sitting im Sand and sell jewelry. Sometimes, when no customers come in, just let him lie and jump even in water. Later, a Mexican beer with lime and then maybe another one, buy all. In the evening you go Lobster Spaghetti dinner, or creative appetizers in an Ouzeri. You are sitting on the windmill with a Drink and watch the yachts and the Rich, who are often beautiful.

The luck seems to

To Amorgos on the horizon, where the captain Skopelitis ends his day, his home island, where the ship remains overnight. Over at the port Café, in the Dimitris’ grandfather was sitting there, in the time of innocence, and the sunset looked at. The grandfather had not only a ferry, but a fishing boat, and sometimes Dimitris was allowed out to the sea to fish. “He was a role model,” he says.

you Ask captain Skopelitis today for a tip on the Islands, a place he particularly likes, he replies with one sentence: “There are many.”

A summer on the Small Cyclades is one that makes for a long time after returning home happy, one speaks in such a case, probably from a place of longing. If it is November in Germany and foggy and can be used to scroll on the mobile phone pictures of the shining sea in front of Iraklia and Koufonisi.

If you don’t have to be on the island, in order to be happy, but the feeling is so preserved as to the Moment from the Childhood of the captain. And you know that there is still plenty of time, come back again and again.

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